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MODULE 02 // TSUNAMIS // WAVE GENERATION MECHANICS

How Earthquakes
Cause Tsunamis

Not every submarine earthquake generates a tsunami — and some generate catastrophic ones from thousands of kilometres away. The difference lies in fault geometry, rupture depth, and vertical seafloor displacement. Learn the physics from fault slip to shoreline run-up.

SOURCE NOAA · PTWC · IOC-UNESCO
UPDATED MARCH 2026
READ TIME ~12 MIN
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// MODULE 01 — SEISMOLOGY — ALL ARTICLES
M ≥ 7.5
MIN MAGNITUDE FOR TSUNAMI RISK
< 70 km
FOCAL DEPTH THRESHOLD (SHALLOW)
800 km/h
DEEP-OCEAN WAVE SPEED
>30 m
MAX RECORDED RUN-UP HEIGHT
PTWC / NOAA — TSUNAMI-CAPABLE SEISMIC EVENTS — REAL-TIME FEED
MONITORING ACTIVE

The link between earthquakes and tsunamis seems intuitive — the ocean shakes, a wave forms. But the actual mechanism is far more selective. Every day, dozens of submarine earthquakes occur worldwide, yet tsunamis are rare. The generation of a destructive tsunami requires a specific combination of fault type, rupture geometry, seafloor displacement, and ocean depth. Understanding this selectivity is not academic: it is the basis of every tsunami warning system on Earth.

THE THREE CONDITIONS FOR TSUNAMI GENERATION

A submarine earthquake triggers a tsunami only when it fulfils three simultaneous conditions. First, the fault must have a significant vertical (dip-slip) component — thrust and normal faults displace the seafloor up or down, directly pushing a water column. Strike-slip faults (horizontal motion) rarely generate large tsunamis. Second, the event must be shallow — focal depths shallower than 70 km produce maximum seafloor deformation; deep events dissipate energy through the mantle and generate little surface displacement. Third, the rupture area must be large enough — the displaced water column must have horizontal extent comparable to ocean depth to avoid immediate radiation cancellation. A M8.0+ rupture may displace tens of thousands of square kilometres of seafloor simultaneously.

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THRUST FAULTING
The primary tsunami generator. Subduction zone megathrust earthquakes — the Cascadia, Japan Trench, Chile trench — lock for centuries then release in minutes. The overriding plate snaps upward, lifting the water column above it by metres over hundreds of kilometres.
▸ SUBDUCTION ZONES · MEGATHRUST · HIGH RISK
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NORMAL FAULTING
Extension tectonics can also generate tsunamis — the seafloor drops, pulling water down and initiating a trough-leading wave. The 1977 Sumba and 2018 Sulawesi earthquakes are examples. Normal fault tsunamis are generally smaller but can be amplified by local submarine landslides triggered simultaneously.
▸ EXTENSIONAL RIFT · TROUGH-LEADING · MODERATE RISK
SUBMARINE LANDSLIDES
Earthquakes frequently trigger submarine slope failures, which can generate tsunamis disproportionately large relative to earthquake magnitude. The 2018 Palu tsunami (M7.5, strike-slip) devastated a bay largely due to co-seismic submarine landslides amplifying an otherwise modest wave.
▸ SECONDARY GENERATION · LOCALLY SEVERE · RAPID

THE PHYSICS: FROM FAULT SLIP TO OCEAN WAVE

01
FAULT RUPTURE — VERTICAL SEAFLOOR DISPLACEMENT
When a locked megathrust fault ruptures, the overriding plate rebounds elastically upward. Typical vertical displacement: 2–10 m over a rupture area of 400 × 100 km. The seafloor acts as a piston — it transfers its entire vertical displacement instantaneously to the base of the water column.
▸ TIMESCALE: SECONDS TO MINUTES · AREA: 10,000–100,000 km²
02
INITIAL WAVE FORMATION — SHALLOW WATER EQUATIONS
The displaced water column cannot sustain vertical anomaly — gravity immediately drives it outward as a shallow-water wave. Despite originating in deep ocean (3–6 km depth), tsunamis behave as shallow-water waves because their wavelength (100–500 km) vastly exceeds water depth. Wave speed: √(g·d), where g is gravity and d is depth.
▸ WAVELENGTH: 100–500 km · AMPLITUDE (DEEP): 0.1–1 m
03
TRANSOCEANIC PROPAGATION — NEAR-IMPERCEPTIBLE AT SEA
In deep water, tsunami waves travel at 700–900 km/h — jet-aircraft speed. Their amplitude is less than 1 metre and their wavelength is hundreds of kilometres; ships at sea cannot detect them. Energy is distributed across the entire water column, and geometric spreading reduces amplitude slowly over ocean-scale distances.
▸ SPEED: 700–900 km/h · INVISIBLE FROM SHIP DECK
04
SHOALING — ENERGY COMPRESSION IN SHALLOW WATER
As the wave enters shallow coastal water, speed drops dramatically (v = √(g·d) decreases with d). The rear of the wave catches up to the front; wavelength compresses from hundreds of kilometres to kilometres. Energy is conserved — so amplitude rises. This shoaling effect can amplify a 0.5 m deep-ocean wave to 10–30 m at shore.
▸ SHOALING AMPLIFICATION: 20–60× · WAVELENGTH COLLAPSE
05
RUN-UP & INUNDATION — THE DESTRUCTIVE PHASE
The wave reaches shore not as a breaking wall but as a rapidly rising sea level — often preceded by a dramatic drawback (seafloor exposure). Run-up height depends on local bathymetry, coastal morphology, and wave period. V-shaped bays focus energy; open coasts disperse it. Maximum run-up (2011 Tōhoku: 40.5 m) can penetrate kilometres inland.
▸ RUN-UP: 3–40+ m · INUNDATION: UP TO 10 km INLAND
TSUNAMI WAVE SPEED
c = √(g · d)

c = wave speed (m/s)
g = gravitational acceleration (9.81 m/s²)
d = water depth (m)

Deep ocean (d = 4000 m) → c ≈ 198 m/s ≈ 713 km/h
Coastal shelf (d = 50 m) → c ≈ 22 m/s ≈ 79 km/h
Near shore (d = 5 m) → c ≈ 7 m/s ≈ 25 km/h

Energy flux (E · c) is conserved → as c drops, amplitude H rises
Green's Law: H ∝ d^(-1/4) [shoaling amplification]

WHAT MAKES AN EARTHQUAKE TSUNAMIGENIC — KEY CRITERIA

PARAMETERTSUNAMIGENIC THRESHOLDWHY IT MATTERS
Magnitude≥ M7.5Minimum rupture area for significant water column displacement
Focal depth< 70 kmDeeper events lose displacement energy before reaching seafloor
Fault mechanismDip-slip (thrust/normal)Vertical component required to physically displace water column
Ocean depth over ruptureAny — deep preferredDeep water allows long-wavelength wave to form intact
Rupture velocitySlow ("tsunami earthquakes")Anomalously slow ruptures generate larger waves per magnitude unit
Co-seismic landslidesPresent in confined baysCan amplify local wave height dramatically beyond seismic prediction

TSUNAMI EARTHQUAKES: THE ANOMALOUS SLOW RUPTURES

A class of events called "tsunami earthquakes" poses particular danger: they generate tsunamis far larger than their seismic magnitude would predict. These events rupture slowly (sub-shear velocity) along shallow, sediment-rich portions of the subduction zone. The 1992 Nicaragua earthquake (M7.6) generated a 10 m tsunami that killed 170 people — a run-up disproportionate to its felt intensity onshore. Because tsunami earthquakes cause weak shaking, coastal populations often do not perceive the danger before the wave arrives. This is why NOAA's warning criterion uses ocean bottom pressure sensors (DART buoys), not just seismic magnitude alone.

// CASE STUDY — 2011 TŌHOKU-OKI

The M9.0 Tōhoku earthquake ruptured ~500 km of the Japan Trench over approximately 3 minutes. Vertical seafloor displacement reached up to 7 m over an area of ~50,000 km². The resulting wave crossed the Pacific in under 24 hours, reaching California (~2 m) and Chile (~1.5 m). Run-up heights in northern Honshu exceeded 40 m. The event exceeded the design basis of the Fukushima Daiichi seawall by over 7 m — a consequence of underestimating the maximum credible rupture extent of the Japan Trench.

Key lesson: probabilistic seismic hazard models for tsunamigenic zones must account for the full statistical distribution of rupture scenarios, including rare, magnitude-saturating events that historical catalogs may not contain.

DART BUOY NETWORKS: REAL-TIME TSUNAMI DETECTION

The global tsunami warning system combines two data streams. Seismic networks detect large earthquakes within minutes and compute magnitude, depth, and mechanism — enough for an initial advisory. But seismic data alone cannot confirm whether a tsunami has formed. That confirmation comes from DART buoys (Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis) — bottom pressure sensors moored in deep water that detect the sub-centimetre pressure change of a passing tsunami wave. DART data allows centres like the Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) to confirm, upgrade, or cancel warnings within 20–30 minutes of generation.

// WARNING LATENCY — THE NEAR-FIELD PROBLEM

For earthquakes occurring directly offshore a populated coast — Cascadia, Chile, Japan — warning time may be as short as 5–15 minutes. No warning system can overcome this latency for the nearest coastlines. This is why coastal communities in subduction zones practise vertical evacuation and have established the rule: strong shaking at the coast is itself the warning. Do not wait for an official alert. Move immediately to high ground.

Far-field tsunamis (crossing ocean basins) allow hours of warning time, making DART-based systems highly effective at protecting distant coasts — as demonstrated by the Pacific-wide response to Tōhoku in 2011.

THE FIVE EARTHQUAKE PARAMETERS TSUNAMI CENTRES MONITOR

// PTWC DECISION PARAMETERS — REAL-TIME PROTOCOL

1. Moment magnitude (Mw). Mw ≥ 7.5 triggers automatic evaluation; Mw ≥ 7.9 triggers automatic watch for surrounding ocean basins.

2. Focal depth. Events shallower than 35 km receive maximum concern; 35–70 km receive elevated concern. Events deeper than 100 km are deprioritised.

3. Focal mechanism (beach ball). Rapid centroid moment tensor solutions classify the fault as thrust, normal, or strike-slip within 10–15 minutes of origin time.

4. DART buoy confirmation. Nearest DART stations are polled for anomalous bottom pressure changes consistent with a propagating wave. Positive detection triggers a warning upgrade to "Warning" level (highest tier).

5. Historical analogue matching. Databases of past tsunamigenic events in the same tectonic segment inform probabilistic run-up estimates for threatened coastlines, driving evacuation zone activation.

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SUBDUCTION ZONES AT RISK: THE GLOBAL THREAT MAP

Roughly 80% of all tsunamis originate in the Pacific — a consequence of the Ring of Fire's arc of active subduction zones. The highest-risk segments are the Cascadia Subduction Zone (last megathrust rupture: 1700 CE, estimated M9.0), the Chile Trench (M9.5 in 1960, the largest recorded earthquake), the Japan Trench (M9.0 in 2011), and the Hikurangi margin off New Zealand. The Indian Ocean, historically considered lower-risk, was catastrophically re-classified after 2004. Mediterranean tsunamis, while less frequent, are well-documented — the Hellenic Arc offshore Greece and the Calabrian Arc off southern Italy are the primary sources, capable of threatening coastlines within 5–20 minutes of rupture.

ZONELAST MAJOR EVENTEST. MAX MwNEAR-FIELD WARNING TIME
Cascadia (NW USA / Canada)1700 CE (M~9.0)9.215–30 min
Chile Trench1960 (M9.5)9.5+10–25 min
Japan Trench2011 (M9.0)9.15–30 min
Sumatra–Andaman2004 (M9.1)9.315–30 min
Hellenic Arc (Greece)1956 (M7.7)8.55–20 min
Alaska–Aleutians1964 (M9.2)9.320–45 min
// MYTH — "STRIKE-SLIP EARTHQUAKES CANNOT CAUSE TSUNAMIS"

While thrust faults are the dominant source, strike-slip earthquakes can and do cause tsunamis through secondary mechanisms. The 2018 Palu, Sulawesi event (M7.5, predominantly strike-slip) triggered submarine landslides that generated run-up heights exceeding 8 m locally — killing over 2,000 people in minutes. In confined geometries (bays, fjords, submarine canyons), even limited horizontal seafloor displacement can mobilise enough sediment to produce locally extreme waves. Warning algorithms increasingly account for co-seismic landslide potential in these environments.

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PANDITA DATA — GEOHAZARD INTELLIGENCE REPORTS
→ GENERATE REAL-TIME TSUNAMI RISK ANALYSIS FOR ANY COASTAL CITY

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